Of the many tours which the various agencies will try to sell you, the bus trip to the Pastoruri Glacier caught our attention. It is located a few hours south of town, at an elevation of about 5000m, and due to its accessibility via a dirt road, is one of few places where "normal" people have the opportunity to experience and get very close to a pretty impressive piece of glacier.
It has also been rapidly melting away in recent years, thus transforming itself into a monument to the consequences of global warming at the same time. There are actually signs indicating where the glacier front was located only a few years ago... it´s quite shocking to see first hand (sort of a mini "Chasing Ice" experience).
We we very sad to notice that the place was littered with sweets wrappers and plastic bags, thrown away by careless visitors (or in some cases claimed by the fierce wind, no doubt). It probably doesn't help that at the start of the short trail which one has to take to get from the bus to the glacier some local people were selling junk and other stuff wrapped in the offending packaging... seems like an issue that could be really easily resolved without having to come up with a rocket science type of solution.
After the relatively relaxing visit to Pastoruri, we were ready for another more active day. Our hotel put us in touch with a local mountain guide who organised a climb of Cerro Mateo for us, which is a little peak of about 5200m not far from (and with great views of) HuascarĂ¡n and which involves a little crampon and ice axe action. It also meant a 2am start from our hotel (the locals in town were still partying when we set off). Not because it was a very long day, but because our guide had recommended that watching the sun rise from the top would be very beautiful.
Alpenglow on HuascarĂ¡n Sur (6768m), the tallest mountain of Peru |
We left Huaraz the following day, definitely wishing to come back for some more in the not so distant future!
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